The Raito Method Of Japanese Armour Part 1 - Tools And Materials

In this article, I will detail all the materials and tools I use to make the Japanese armour. Unless this is marked finished, please use it as a general guideline. Please don't run out and buy stuff based on this article -- read the construction threads as they'll be more exact. This list is really here to let those following along if they've missed anything, and to let those who might know what they're getting into.

Materials (in order of use):

• 4 yards white broadcloth, cotton, silk, or linen
• White thread (for sewing white bits)
• 10 feet stout cloth, plain weave (in whatever color you'd like). I find most broadcloth too light for this, but something like denim is too heavy.
• 4 yards heavy cloth, plain weave. Something like denim or duck is not too heavy for this.
• Colored thread (for sewing colored bits)
• graph paper
• 1 black plastic 55 gallon barrel (or 2 if you're of larger size). I'm 6' 260, and I can't get a full suit out of 1 barrel. I can make a dou, but don't have enough left over for sode. You can try to get them used in your area. For new barrels, I recommend Baytec containers. Much more pricey, and shipping is costly, but I've never had a problem with communication or delivery from them. And if you use a blue or white one, Effingham's ghost (when he goes) will haunt you forever, and when I go, I'll take the weekend shift. Black only! Seriously, paint really just doesn't work. Save yourself the hassle and get a black barrel. Alternatively, you could use sheet plastic, but I won't be including much instruction on bending it with heat.
• 5/8" athletic shoelaces. I use St. Louis Braid for mine. Some like Laces For Less, but I find that a gross of 72" laces from St. Louis is a better value. You will need a gross of colored (whatever your main color will be), a gross of red, and a gross of white. Really, you can cut down on the red and white a lot or share with your friends.
• Sheet steel, mild or stainless. Stainless is harder and doesn't rust, mild is easier to work and takes paint better. You'll need at least 14 ga. and 16ga. for the kabuto, and lighter for extremities. If you wish, you may use aluminum for some parts, but I would not recommend it for plates on the kote.
• 1 spool of heavy waxed nylon thread.
• At least 1 can of spray metal primer.
• At least 1 can of black spray paint (unless you're using red sheet plastic and want a matching red helm and other bits).
• 1 can red or gold spray paint (for the inside of the shikoro. Red is standard, but gold is pretty spiffy).
• 3/16" truss head mild steel rivets (or stainless if you're using stainless steel). As we'll be putting the heads on the inside of the kabuto, truss heads are recommended

Tools:

• 1 sewing machine (or other sewing method)
• 1 pair scissors for cutting fabric and thread (or other method, you can use your teeth if you wish)
• Pins for sewing
• 1 clothes iron and ironing board
• 1 linear measuring device (ruler, yardstick, tape measure, etc.)
• 1 electric sabre saw (or other method for cutting the barrel)
• 1 beverly shear (or other method for cutting metal or plastic)
• 1 electric drill (or other method for drilling holes in metal or plastic)
• 1 hand metal punch (or other way to punch or drill holes in metal)
• 1 1/8" , 1 5/32" twist drill bit (for drilling plastic)
• 1 3/16" twist drill bit (for drilling metal>
• 1 heavy leather sewing needle (goes with the waxed thread above)
• 1 8' pine 2X4
• 1 ball peen hammer, the larger the better
• pencil or pen for writing on the graph paper
• red fine point sharpie (or other color or other felt tip, but don't use black)